[OpenTRV-dev] Help getting serial connection to Radbot

Tim Small tim at buttersideup.com
Fri Feb 19 08:19:11 UTC 2021


There is a comment in the FreeBSD device driver source for the CH340
which says something along the lines of:

"This is a driver for the WinChipHead CH340.  The worst USB to serial
converter chip in the world."

Having had roughly the same experience as the person who eventually
designed this:

https://uart-adapter.com/#why

... I eventually gave up and bought one, and it's paid for itself over
the past couple of years in saved time/doubt when debugging stuff.

It uses a genuine (not pirate/clone) chip from Glasgow-based FTDI.

A little on the (very common) fakes here:

https://www.voltlog.com/identifying-replacing-a-fake-ftdi-ft232r-chip-voltlog-314/

If you don't need the galvanic isolation and wide voltage range of the
µart, then you can get basic 3.3v / 5v FTDI based adapters from RS or
Farnell etc.

https://uk.farnell.com/ftdi/lc234x/eval-brd-usb-to-uart-interface/dp/2753006

HTH!

Cheers,

Tim.


On 14/02/2021 23:25, Robert May wrote:
> Regardless of what else changed I can't make it work with my (cheap)
> CH430 USB dongle (similar to this
> one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-3V-5V-Serial-Adapter-Module-CH340G-USB-to-TTL-6-Pin-UART-Adapter/192935577926?hash=item2cebdb4946:g:RFsAAOSwyXNZ-mJr
> <https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-3V-5V-Serial-Adapter-Module-CH340G-USB-to-TTL-6-Pin-UART-Adapter/192935577926?hash=item2cebdb4946:g:RFsAAOSwyXNZ-mJr>). 
> It works fine with the PI's built in serial port, so no actual dongle
> needed at all.
>
> To use the built in serial port you need to stop the PI using it for
> boot messages and attaching a terminal to it:
> sudo raspi-config;  Select option 3 Interface Options, and then Option
> P6 Serial port;  Answer 'no' to the question "would you like a login
> shell to be accessible over serial?", and 'yes' to "Would you like the
> serial port hardware to be enabled", and then reboot.
>
> Then connect Physical pin 8 (TxD) to TX pad on Radbot and physical pin
> 10 (RxD) to RX pad on radbot.   COnnect one of the ground pins (e.g.
> physical pin 6) to the -ve terminal of the radbot.  and start a
> terminal on /dev/ttyAMA0
>
> Either screen (if you have it installed): screen /dev/ttyAMA0 4800.
> (Ctl-A k to kill the session and exit)
> or microcom (installed in base image):  busybox microcom -s 4800
> /dev/ttyAMA0 (Ctrl-X to exit)
>
> If it's safe to power the Radbot from 5V then it could be powered from
> the PI, but not from the 3.3V rail if the motor unit's attached
> (usually OK to get at least 300mA from the 5V rail, but only 50mA
> allowed from the 3.3v rail -
> source: https://www.circuits.dk/everything-about-raspberry-gpio/#:~:text=The%20total%20maximum%20recommended%20current,the%20rest%20of%20the%20board
> <https://www.circuits.dk/everything-about-raspberry-gpio/#:~:text=The%20total%20maximum%20recommended%20current,the%20rest%20of%20the%20board>.
> ).  If my memory serves me I was seeing about 160mA draw when the
> motor was running.
>
> Rob.
>
> On Sun, 14 Feb 2021 at 23:01, Tristan Keen <tristan.keen at gmail.com
> <mailto:tristan.keen at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     Glad to hear you got there!
>
>       My USB/Serial cable (link in Part List wiki page) was
>     outputting 4.9 V open circuit from the "power" connections, so I
>     presume it was connected to the USB main power output.  Originally
>     I tried powering the Radbot via a couple of low value (82 Ohm)
>     resistors as I was a bit nervous of driving it at the higher than
>     expected voltage, but couldn't connect reliably.  After checking
>     the Atmel 328P's datasheet, which suggests a 2.7 - 6V range, I
>     removed the resistors and tried again - it worked.  Voltage
>     dropped to 4.4 volts or so when the motor came on during its
>     initial valve cycling though.
>
>     So far all four appear to be unharmed...
>
>     Tristan.
>
>     On Sun, 14 Feb 2021 at 22:26, Robert May <rob at themayfamily.me.uk
>     <mailto:rob at themayfamily.me.uk>> wrote:
>
>         Thanks all.  I'm there (or at least I think I am).
>
>         I changed a number of things - the voltage I'm driving the
>         Radbot (now at 3.3v), I remade my solder connections and
>         replaced the wires/connectors as I think one of the dupont
>         connectors was loose, and I moved to using the built in serial
>         port of the PI (/dev/AMA0).   I'll see if I can work out which
>         of these was actually the culprit.
>
>         Out of interest, what is the max voltage that is safe to run
>         the Radbot.  If I understand this page
>         correctly (https://github.com/tyrken/heatmon/wiki/Reprogramming-Radbot-TRVs
>         <https://github.com/tyrken/heatmon/wiki/Reprogramming-Radbot-TRVs>)
>         then it is suggesting powering it at 5V (direct from the USB port)
>
>         Onwards.
>         Rob.
>
>         On Sun, 14 Feb 2021 at 21:45, Damon Hart-Davis <dhd at exnet.com
>         <mailto:dhd at exnet.com>> wrote:
>
>             Hi,
>
>             1) FWIW, when I am powering remotely, eg to reflash, I
>             tend to run at 3.6V.
>
>             2) Yes, I think that we label our TX and RX the ‘wrong’
>             way round and have confused ourselves from time to time. 
>             Almost certainly an early error or at least bad choice by
>             me, reinforced by my trying to then be consistent across
>             schematics.
>
>             3) FWIW I use a FTDI TTL-232R-3V3 to talk to Radbots.
>
>             Rgds
>
>             Damon
>
>>             On 14 Feb 2021, at 20:52, Robert May
>>             <rob at themayfamily.me.uk <mailto:rob at themayfamily.me.uk>>
>>             wrote:
>>
>>             Thanks Damon, Christoph.
>>
>>             I already moved to soldering my connections to
>>             eliminate that issue.
>>
>>             I can see the TX LED flash on my dongle when I hit
>>             <return>, and if I swap the tx/rx connections so I have
>>             tx on dongle to tx on Radbot and rx on dongle to rx on
>>             Radbot then after I hit <return> I see the rx led on the
>>             dongle flash approx. every 2 seconds for a while - so I
>>             *think* I'm waking it up.    This feels wrong, but past
>>             experience tells me that there is sometimes confusion
>>             over how rx and tx pins are marked.
>>
>>             But I see nothing in my terminal.  I've shortened the
>>             wires as much as I can, and I'm sure that my grounds are OK
>>
>>             Can you expand on what you mean by "perhaps one of the
>>             devices doesn’t like the 3.0V supply"?
>>
>>             Here's a couple of pictures
>>             https://www.dropbox.com/s/s8jdv6j9a4covw3/Photo%2014-02-2021%2C%2020%2041%2054.jpg?dl=0
>>             <https://www.dropbox.com/s/s8jdv6j9a4covw3/Photo%2014-02-2021%2C%2020%2041%2054.jpg?dl=0>
>>             https://www.dropbox.com/s/sp819pw2ds1lf73/Photo%2014-02-2021%2C%2020%2042%2011.jpg?dl=0
>>             <https://www.dropbox.com/s/sp819pw2ds1lf73/Photo%2014-02-2021%2C%2020%2042%2011.jpg?dl=0>
>>             (not a good shot, but I'm sure the pins and +ve terminals
>>             are not touching)
>>
>>             Any other ideas?  I've been staring at this all day and
>>             can't see what's wrong.
>>
>>             Rob.
>>
>>
>>             On Sun, 14 Feb 2021 at 19:33, Christoph M. Wintersteiger
>>             <christoph at winterstiger.at
>>             <mailto:christoph at winterstiger.at>> wrote:
>>
>>                 Hi Rob,
>>
>>                  
>>
>>                 That’s great, you’ve got very far in a very short
>>                 amount of time!
>>
>>                  
>>
>>                 It sounds like you’re “holding” the wires on – just
>>                 solder them on if you have a soldering iron around,
>>                 it’s easy enough to take them back off after the
>>                 operation.
>>
>>                  
>>
>>                 I can imagine that there’s a ground potential problem
>>                 and perhaps one of the devices doesn’t like the 3.0V
>>                 supply. The Radbot takes very little power and I was
>>                 able to simply power it from my USB-serial adapter,
>>                 but that depends on the adapter of course.
>>                 Alternatively, the RPi also has a 3.3V supply (and
>>                 5.0V too) and it has a serial port right next to the
>>                 supply pins too, so if you have a few breadboard
>>                 wires around, that would be a simple and quick
>>                 alternative.
>>
>>                  
>>
>>                 Cheers,
>>
>>                 Christoph
>>
>>                  
>>
>>                 *From:* OpenTRV-dev
>>                 <opentrv-dev-bounces at lists.opentrv.org.uk
>>                 <mailto:opentrv-dev-bounces at lists.opentrv.org.uk>>
>>                 *On Behalf Of *Robert May
>>                 *Sent:* Sunday, 14 February, 2021 18:24
>>                 *To:* Closed list for developer discussions
>>                 <opentrv-dev at lists.opentrv.org.uk
>>                 <mailto:opentrv-dev at lists.opentrv.org.uk>>
>>                 *Subject:* [OpenTRV-dev] Help getting serial
>>                 connection to Radbot
>>
>>                  
>>
>>                 I've finally found time to unbox my Radbots.   The
>>                 plan is to build a combined stats hub and
>>                 boiler controller based on a RPi.
>>
>>                  
>>
>>                 I've successfully compiled the code Christoph shared
>>                 (https://github.com/wintersteiger/wlmcd
>>                 <https://github.com/wintersteiger/wlmcd>) and used to
>>                 to show the one Radbot I've powered up transmits and
>>                 that I can receive the frames using a CC1101/RPi
>>                 combination.  Of course the decryption fails as I've
>>                 yet to set a decryption key.
>>
>>                  
>>
>>                 I'm struggling to get a connection over the serial
>>                 port to the Radbot.  I'm trying to follow the
>>                 instructions shared by Tristan
>>                 (https://github.com/tyrken/heatmon/wiki/Reprogramming-Radbot-TRVs
>>                 <https://github.com/tyrken/heatmon/wiki/Reprogramming-Radbot-TRVs>)
>>                 but I can't seem to get any comms over the serial port.
>>
>>                  
>>
>>                 I've opened up my radbot to get better access to the
>>                 pads.
>>
>>                 I'm powering the Radbot from a bench power supply at 3.0V
>>
>>                 I've got a USB serial dongle operating at 3.3V logic,
>>                 grounded to the -ve supply.
>>
>>                 I think I'm hold the rx/tx lines on the pads (tx from
>>                 my dongle to rx on the radbot and rx on the dongle
>>                 to tx on the Radbot), but I get nothing from 'screen'
>>                 that I'm using for my terminal.
>>
>>                  
>>
>>                 As far as I know I'm using 4800baud, 8-N-1 (screen
>>                 /dev/ttyUSB0 4800), which I believ to be the expected
>>                 settings?
>>
>>                  
>>
>>                 Can anyone see anything that I'm doing wrong or give
>>                 me a pointer to things that I can try. ?
>>
>>                  
>>
>>                 Thanks,
>>
>>                 Rob.
>>
>>                  
>>
>>                  
>>
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