<div dir="ltr">It's very likely that it's the accessory power problem.<br><br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Mar 3, 2015 at 4:45 PM, Bo Herrmannsen <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:bo.herrmannsen@gmail.com" target="_blank">bo.herrmannsen@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">me allready getting a bit dizy :-D<br>
<br>
but i know that a healthy battery should be able to keep voltage at<br>
9V... but once the engine is running that will jump to 15V and slowly<br>
lower as the battery is charged up<br>
<br>
and then i looked at the schematic and figured that voltage is first<br>
lowered to 5V and then down to 3.3V...<br>
<br>
maybe a small 7.2V lipo pack is the most easy way arround it... but of<br>
course not the cheapest<br>
<div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5"><br>
2015-03-03 17:39 GMT+01:00 Adrian Godwin <<a href="mailto:artgodwin@gmail.com">artgodwin@gmail.com</a>>:<br>
> The fundamental calculation is C = V/(it)<br>
><br>
> i.e. the capacitance is the voltage change you want to see divided by the<br>
> product of current and time. As Kevin says, applying this can be complicated<br>
> if there are multiple regulation stages. The current may also be dependent<br>
> on the voltage. If you can provide the holdup at 12V while regulating that<br>
> down to 3v3 with a switching regulator, you will get good value, as the<br>
> current will be smaller than the module uses (due to the constant power<br>
> effect of the regulator) and a large voltage drop (about 9V) will be<br>
> allowed.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> On Tue, Mar 3, 2015 at 4:30 PM, Bo Herrmannsen <<a href="mailto:bo.herrmannsen@gmail.com">bo.herrmannsen@gmail.com</a>><br>
> wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> the remote control is direct to battery :-D<br>
>><br>
>> or else... yes... it would loose power at engine start...<br>
>><br>
>> it for a car preheater that has its own fuse box etc and not tied in<br>
>> to the cars electrical other than at the battery terminals<br>
>><br>
>> 2015-03-03 17:27 GMT+01:00 Kevin Wood <<a href="mailto:kevin@the-wood-family.com">kevin@the-wood-family.com</a>>:<br>
>> > I would check how you're deriving the supply voltage for the module. I<br>
>> > think the SIM900 module itself only needs 3.3 / 3.8 V but the current is<br>
>> > up to 2A peak when transmitting. Mine includes a regulator on the shield<br>
>> > that drops this from a nominal 5V supply input.<br>
>> ><br>
>> > I'd be very surprised if your battery voltage is dropping low enough<br>
>> > that<br>
>> > an LDO regulator wouldn't be able to supply the module from 12V, but I<br>
>> > suspect you might be regulating down to 5V, then down to 3.8, etc. and<br>
>> > losing a bit of headroom with each step, which might cause you a<br>
>> > problem.<br>
>> ><br>
>> > Dropping 12V to 3.8 at 2A might be a tall order for the regulator<br>
>> > without<br>
>> > better heatsinking, but I wouldn't mind betting the average current is<br>
>> > quite low, given that the module won't work in every GSM timeslot, so<br>
>> > you<br>
>> > might well get away with it.<br>
>> ><br>
>> > Also, the accessory circuits on some cars are disconnected when the key<br>
>> > is<br>
>> > in the "III" (cranking) position, so it might be simply that you are<br>
>> > losing the supply completely.<br>
>> ><br>
>> > BTW: Sorry for my absence on here of late. I'll update you with what<br>
>> > I've<br>
>> > been doing when I get a chance as it might be interesting.<br>
>> ><br>
>> > Kevin<br>
>> ><br>
>> ><br>
>> ><br>
>> >> its a sim900 based module and datasheet says 2A at max...<br>
>> >><br>
>> >> how do i calc how big the cap needs to be for every X sec i want the<br>
>> >> cap to power it? it not its quite extreme but better be safe than<br>
>> >> sorry<br>
>> >><br>
>> >> the module runs at ~4.8V, but need to check the regulator on the<br>
>> >> mega2560 based board the module mounts in to<br>
>> >><br>
>> >> 2015-03-03 17:10 GMT+01:00 Adrian Godwin <<a href="mailto:artgodwin@gmail.com">artgodwin@gmail.com</a>>:<br>
>> >>> Probably a cap and diode will fix it. Measure the current the GSM<br>
>> >>> module<br>
>> >>> takes (while transmitting) to be dure. If not, use a tricklecharged<br>
>> >>> battery<br>
>> >>> When you turn the starter, the battery voltage can fall very low and<br>
>> >>> may<br>
>> >>> well drop below what the module power supply needs.<br>
>> >>><br>
>> >>><br>
>> >>> On Tue, Mar 3, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Bo Herrmannsen<br>
>> >>> <<a href="mailto:bo.herrmannsen@gmail.com">bo.herrmannsen@gmail.com</a>><br>
>> >>> wrote:<br>
>> >>>><br>
>> >>>> Sorry for the Off Topic<br>
>> >>>><br>
>> >>>><br>
>> >>>> But i have on the shelf a gsm remote control i build last year... it<br>
>> >>>> works fine but as soon i start the engine the GSM module goes<br>
>> >>>> disconnects from the cell network<br>
>> >>>><br>
>> >>>> i could just power that off and turn it on should it loose connection<br>
>> >>>><br>
>> >>>> but i wondered if a fix could also be a big cap and a diode ? or<br>
>> >>>> maybe<br>
>> >>>> a small lithium pack and a small charge circuit?<br>
>> >>>><br>
>> >>>> /bo<br>
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</div></div></blockquote></div><br></div>